Archive for the ‘BMW Of The Day’ Category

BMWotD — ’88 M5 Race Car!

Sunday, March 14th, 2010

Here’s something you don’t see every day:

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One of the Fastest M5’s in the country

1988 E28 M5 VIN# WBSDC9305J2791570 prod date 6/87

Just in time for the racing season. This Race Car needs nothing to be raced next weekend.

Top Speed Over 170 Mph

3.9 6 Cylinder w/ over 370 rear wheel horsepower

  • Weighs Just under 2500 LBs
  • All Receipt’s and Complete Build Sheets Fresh S38 Motorsports Engine only 1 Race
  • Comes With lots Spares
  • Comes AMB transponder and lap timer
  • 2 Rear Ends 3:91/3:73 Precision Engineering Built
  • 8 Fiske and 4 BBS Lightweight Wheels
  • Wolf 3D+4 Fully Programmable Engine Management
  • Ground Control Double Adjustable Shocks & Struts
  • Fully Adjustable Suspension Front And Rear
  • AP 6 Piston Calipers Front and AP Rear Calipers
  • Carbon Fiber Hood
  • Carbon Fiber Air Intake
  • Carbon Fiber Air Damn

This is A Completely Sorted Race Car, Campaigned in Scca and BMWCCA. Will pass all tech inspections. Holds Many Lap records and Many Overall Wins.

S38 b38 BMW Engine, Balanced and Blueprinted, Head match ported and polished. Stillen Crankshaft, ARP Bolts and Studs Throughout. Over 370 RWHP.

Has New FIA 6 Point Schroth Belts, Current Window Net, Momo Seat and Steering Wheel. Comes with Spares. Spare Carbon Fiber Air Damn, Spare Rotors w/Hats for Front and Rear. Back-up Master Cylinder, Hydroboost, Brake lines, Various Rate Coil Springs

Comes w/2 Sets Full wets and 1 Set Intermediate wets, 3 sets of slicks; 24 tires total.

The car is (was?) owned by David Daniels, and is pretty well known to people in the E28 community. For a non-turbo engine, it’s HP output is as high as I’ve ever seen in an E28. And stripped down to 2,500 pounds? Wow. The E28 is notoriously heavy and difficult to strip down for racing, but Daniels used a lot of carbon fiber & fiberglass to help keep the weight down. Here is a video of it going up against an E36 M3 (owned & driven by Brian Watts.) In the video, the M3 can outrun the M5 in the straights, but the M5 walks right on by in the corners. Tells a lot about the work that Daniels put into the chassis and suspension! And about the driver!

The car was up for sale on eBay, but the auction ended with the final bid at $21,100, and the reserve not met.

Dingbat’s Beemer

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

A 1982 320i just came up for sale on eBay that just happens to have been previously owned by Jean Stapleton, aka Edith Bunker, aka Dingbat.

Looks like a nice car; very clean, and only 85,000 miles. Too bad it’s an automatic!

I couldn’t help but think of my favorite episode of All In The Family; Edith’s Accident (also known as “The Cling Peaches Incident”.)

“Go from the presence of a foolish man, when thou perceivest not in him the lips of knowledge.” Proverbs 14:7

It means, “Don’t waste your time arguing with an idiot.”

BMWotD — 1985 Euro 635CSi

Sunday, January 17th, 2010

I saw this car first in the Cars For Sale forum at MyE28.com, then it showed up on BringATrailer.com. I’ve always liked the BMW e24’s, built from 1976 through 1989; they are cool, sexy machines, and the form factor has aged well.

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The e24 is an oddity in the BMW lineup because there were major changes in 1982 that should have deserved a change in the designation, but it remained the e24. The earlier cars were based on the e12 and the later ones on the e28. The later cars were slightly lighter and had higher engine output. 25-plus years out, the later cars are generally better buys because they are newer, if only by a few years, and are generally in better shape. I think the sheet metal is the same, but much under the skin is different.

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This one is located in Ridgecrest, California, looks to be extremely clean, and has been converted from the original autotragic to a 5-speed; sweet. The seller has a great reputation on MyE28.com (that counts for a lot!); very unlikely that there are any unsorted issues on this car. And given the location — high desert area of southern CA — very likely that the air conditioning works! Priced at only $4,800, it’s a wonder it hasn’t sold yet.

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BMWotD — 1988 M535 Touring!

Saturday, December 5th, 2009

This car is it. Not only is it an über-rare Touring, but it’s also got the ///M-package with the M30 big six engine, and the euro bumpers! Saw a link to the eBay auction for this car on mye28.com today… It’s not perfect — it has an accident in its history, and the interior looks like it needs some attention — but the Touring is rarer than rare, especially in the US. They weren’t built by BMW (God only knows why), but were aftermarket conversions done by a handful of European outfits. From what I understand, many were poorly executed, and after living 20+ years in the UK and Europe… rust.

This one looks to be in decent shape. All I can say is it’s a good thing I don’t have any money or I’d be bidding and making arrangements to ship it here from Germany. And if I won the auction, I’d probably end up without a home, so the wagon-back would really come in handy.

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BMWotD — The Near Miss

Friday, October 9th, 2009

Remember that BMW I wrote about bringing home last week? (The one that I still haven’t taken photos of?) Well, I almost wrecked it last night, and I wasn’t even in it.

One of the problems with the car (that the seller somehow failed to mention in his ad and in all the conversations we had) is that the emergency brake doesn’t work; pull the handle, nothing happens. Well, over the weekend I pulled the car up into the driveway to do some work on it — cleaned it up a bit (badly needed) and checked over the intake tract & fixed a few things there (starts & runs like a champ now) — but because our driveway has a slightly steep slope to it, I of course put a couple of blocks behind the rear wheels. So far, so good.

When I went to back it out of the driveway, I first got in & made sure it was in gear — put it into second — then went to the left wheel & pulled the block, then went to the right side and did the same. And the car began to move. And it continued to move. On its own. Right on down the driveway.

In complete and utter futility I tried pushing to keep it from going, but had the presence of mind not to get behind it, and to let go when I realized I wasn’t going to be able to do anything but get myself hurt. So I stood there watching as it rolled down the driveway and across the street. I think my heart about stopped or at least skipped a few beats right about then. But somehow the car went straight as an arrow, bumped up the curb on the other side of the street, missed a tree (a small one) by about a foot, and came to rest in the grass in Jamie’s side yard. Actually, I think it was rolling forward a bit and would’ve gone back down the curb, but I jumped in & hit the brakes, then started it up, backed up a little and drove it out Mel’s driveway.

I don’t recall if it was still in gear or not when I got in, so I don’t know if it slipped out of gear or what. I checked it over and didn’t see any obvious damage. I checked it out again this morning in the daylight (thankfully it happened in the dark!) and it looked like the fuel tank bottom was dented in a little with some grass trapped between it and the strap, but nothing serious. Could’ve been so very serious had there been a car parked across from the driveway, or if it had turned just a little, or if a car had been passing by at the time. Even as it was, the muffler could easily have snagged on the curb… I’m just so very, very thankful it ended as well as it did!

BMWotD — 1988 735i. Mine!

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

Well, I did it again. Bought another cheap BMW from some guy on Craigslist.

I think I did alright on this one though… It’s in need of some help, but nowhere near the laundry list of projects my ’84 528e came with. And my negotiation skilz must be a bit better than The Chicago Olympics Salesguy In Chief; I got it at my price, which was about half the previous owner’s original asking price (but Barack… didn’t fare so well.)

Anyway the car is well equipped and is in decent shape, but does have a few issues here & there. The paint — Bronzit Beige Metallic, my new favorite color! — is good, with the exception of a little rust at the door bottoms. The interior is very good, and everything inside works as it should (though I’m having trouble deciphering the HVAC controls!) It runs great, but does have some difficulty starting, especially when warm; I’m thinking a little TLC in the intake tract should clear that up. One thing that needs immediate attention is the right front wheel bearing; it makes an awful howl when rolling, and pulls to the right a bit. Replacing the bearing/hub assembly doesn’t appear to be too difficult a job, but a new bearing will set me back about $120 or so. Aside from that, the driver’s door locking actuator needs some attention — very finicky about unlocking from inside or outside — and a couple of missing interior light lenses.

All in all, the car seems to have suffered some neglect at the hands of the previous owner. The guy who owned it previous to the guy I bought it from seemed to have taken much better care of it; I also received with the car a nice stack of repair records detailing repairs done since about 2000. I also had a peek at what the previous owner paid for it when he bought it two years ago; several times what I paid for it. I’m guessing that the PO bought it in excellent shape, but being a college kid, had no garage, no tools, & no time to do the necessary upkeep on a car like this. The collection of mud and tree debris in the gutters around the hood & trunk were testament to the fact it hadn’t been thoroughly washed for a long time, and that probably led to the rust at the door bottoms. The oil in the crankcase was even blacker than what I found in my 528 when I brought it home… That guy just wasn’t suited to driving a car like this; what he needs is an appliance like a Honda or a Cavalier. But he’s buying a Mini. I feel sorry for that car.

Here are some photos of the thing that came from the PO; I haven’t had a chance to snap any because it’s been raining since we brought it home on Thursday. Click on the photos to see the monster-size versions.
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BMWotD — 1991 735i C4C

Friday, September 4th, 2009

What a shame. What a crying flippin’ shame.

I drove through the local VW/Audi dealer’s lot earlier this week, just to see what they’ve got on hand, and saw this gorgeous Burgundrot 735i sitting along the back fence. I’m guessing it’s about a ’91; doesn’t really matter I guess, because this is as close as I’ll get to owning it… It’s a Cash for Clunkers trade in. Even though the bad joke of program is over & done with, seeing this car makes me mad & sad all over again.

Cosmetically, the car is in decent shape. It’s missing a center cap on one of the rear Style 2 wheels, but no big deal there. The tires are in decent shape. The interior looks pretty clean. There’s no rust anywhere that I can see. The undercarriage is very clean. Just looks like a very nicely kept Big Bimmer. The engine & transmission are total unknowns, and might have been huge problems, but with these cars, most any issue aside from rust can be sorted out without much fuss.

But it’s headed for the crusher anyway.

The Cash For Clunkers program was such a stupid idea to begin with… $2.88 billion in taxpayer money (and borrowed money) was dumped into this program in an effort to stimulate the economy by giving a boost to slumped auto sales, and to pull ‘older’ ‘inefficient’ cars off the road, replacing them with newer more fuel efficient cars. At first, the program was funded with a billion dollars, with the idiots in Congress thinking the program would run for a couple of months. When that money ran out in the first week, the program was hailed as a huge success and given another two billion dollars. Interesting how ‘success’ was defined here, as if handing out free money could somehow ‘fail’.

From what I remember of what was said about the program when it was first introduced was that it was primarily meant to help the US automakers, but guess which cars sold the best… Imports. And the short-term impact on the economy was barely perceptible, and still economists wonder whether the meager boost came at the cost of sales that would’ve happened later anyway. And how many of the nearly 700,000 people who took advantage of the program overextended themselves financially & will end up defaulting on their auto loans. The supposed environmental aims of the program were realized, but at what economic cost? Especially when you consider the environmental impact of building a new car and disposing of the old one.

But I’ll set aside the economics and politics of C4C for a moment and focus on one of the things I hate the most about the program; the fact that perfectly serviceable cars — like this 735i — are going to be scrapped. There’s no second chance for them; the title is blackmarked & made ineligible for being resold ever again, and the shell is crushed. Some may have easily salvageable parts pulled and resold by a recycler, but the engines get horked over by having them run until the bearings seize up from the dose of sodium silicate dumped into the crankcase in place of oil. In many cases, the dealers could potentially sell the cars for more than the $4,500 maximum that the previous owner got from the government, but now the dealers can do nothing but sit on their hands waiting for the promised checks to be sent out by the bureaucrats overseeing the program. Makes me wonder how high the opportunity cost would be to the dealers from all that money sitting in limbo. With help like that…

Sorry if I sound bitter about this, but I just hate to see a car as nice as this go to waste. I’ll get over it, but it would at least ease my pain if I could somehow get my hands on the wheels & brakes from this thing; that’d be a nice upgrade for my 528! Ok, now I sound greedy. Guess it’s just the cheapskate dumpster-diver in me.

A Cheapskate’s Paint Job — The Final Product

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

This is the third and maybe final installment in my Cheapskate’s Paint Job series (click here for Part 1, and here for Part 2.) One thing is for sure; the “$50 Paint Job” is a bit of a misnomer; it’s a paint job alright, but I’m pretty sure I passed the $50 mark not too long after buying the paint for it. I didn’t keep very close track of things, but when it was all said & done, the paint & materials for the job cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $200. Still far cheaper than a professional paint job, but $50 just wouldn’t cut it! So I’ll just call it The Cheapskate’s Paint Job®!

 

The car is nearly complete — only a few niggling details to button up — and I have to say I’m impressed with the results. I am by no means an autobody guy, but I do know a decent paint job when I see one, and this one shines like a professionally painted car. And that’s with no clearcoat and no wax on it. There are little issues galore with the paint job, most of them related to my crappy prep job (which is directly related to my crappy/nonexistent autobody skills), and my inexperience with the entire process, and my rush to finish it up in the last week or so.

But the final product proves to me at least that the concept and process is sound, and can yield a nice looking paint job for someone on a tight budget but has a good measure of patience and some spare time. Another thing I like about this process is that repairing scratches or dings or dents should be much less painful. One of the things that happened to me is that the mystery of auto finishing is gone; it’s no longer a black art in my mind. If something goes wrong with it, I know what went into getting it to look the way it does, and repairing it won’t be as monumental a task in my mind.

I can also say that the next time I take on a job like this, it’ll be killer. Will I take on another job like this? Mmmmm… Not in the foreseeable future, but if the need presents itself, and I don’t want to spend thousands of dollars on the car… And I have a better situation for garage space… And I have nothing better to do with a few weeks of my spare time… I might consider it. But not any time soon unless I want to be minus a wife!

The time involved was the biggest issue for me, but thankfully I had a spare car sitting in front of the house that I could use while the 528 was off the street. I don’t remember exactly what day I started this job, but I know it was around the beginning of July — about six weeks ago. It didn’t exactly take that long to complete, because there was a lot of downtime/thinking time/research time thrown in there, noodling out how to accomplish whatever the next step was. It’s definitely not a project to take on when you don’t have alternative transportation of some sort. If I were to do it again, I think I could be done — start to finish — in about a week. If I didn’t get sidetracked or distracted. As if that would ever happen.

The Rustoleum paint turned out pretty well, but one thing that might be an obstacle for some people is the limited number of colors, and the fact that there are no metallic colors; just solid colors. While I was painting I wondered whether this method would maybe work with standard automotive paints. I don’t foresee myself jumping into trying that any time soon, but I also don’t see why it wouldn’t work (as long as the paint doesn’t eat the foam on the roller.) Might be worth a try for someone who has a quart of automotive paint sitting around doing nothing. The Rustoleum is probably a lot cheaper than automotive paint, but I would hazard to guess that you’d use less by rolling it on vs. spraying.

After completing the job, if someone were to ask what is the secret to getting good results with this method, I’d have to list three things; prep, wet-sanding, and buffing. Skimp or screw up on any one of them and your final product will show it. (More on each of those topics at the end of this post.)

Make the jump to see a few photos of the car in process and as it stands today. You can’t really see the deficiencies in the paint, but if you saw it in person they’d be pretty apparent. It’s definitely about a “20 foot” paint job; looks great from a distance, but don’t look too closely. I’ve also added a checklist and step-by-step for the process with some hints from what I learned through the job. Hopefully someone can learn from some of my mistakes.
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BMWotD — 1986 Dinan M5

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

This car is awesome. Flat out awesome.

1986 BMW M5.

European specification model. Only 24,000 original miles!

This superb example features flawless “Diamond black” paint with gorgeous brown water buffalo leather. With only one owner from new, this Dinan-prepared M5 features an inter-cooled turbocharger and Borla stainless exhaust system, the combination of which produces an impressive 462 horsepower! A stage III suspension package and Brembo F-40 braking system with drilled rotors makes this a true “Ultimate Driving Machine” experience.

In addition, thermostatically controlled transmission and differential coolers have been fitted to the car.

The usual 5-series amenities of air conditioning, power windows, door locks and factory sunroof add to the comfort and convenience of this ultra-high performance sedan – a true sports car with four doors.

All EPA and DOT certification papers are available. Our M5 was imported by its one and only owner and all certification paperwork comes with the car. Even the original German ownership document is available! All upgrades were completed in California by Dinan, the preeminent company for BMW performance enhancements. The turbocharger brings the horsepower up to 462!

The differential has been converted to a 3:91 from the original 3:73. New clutch in 2005 and the turbo was rebuilt in 2006. Split Second control for air/fuel mixture has been installed in lieu of the air flow meter.

Surely this is among the finest, lowest mileage early M5’s anywhere and could certainly be unique with its upgrades. Lastly, the car has been thoroughly inspected and completely detailed by the TLD staff.

The first BMW M5, based on the E28 5 series, made its debut at the Amsterdam Motor Show in February 1985. It was born from the demand for an automobile with the carrying capacity of a sedan but the overall performance of a sports car. It utilized the 535i chassis and an evolution of the engine from the BMW M1. At the time of its launch, the E28 M5 was the fastest production sedan in the world. The European-specification examples featured 10.5:1 compression, a 0-60 time of 6.2 seconds and 286 horsepower. All M5’s were hand built. In addition, the E28 M5 remains the rarest of all regular production derived M cars. Only the purpose-built M1 has a lower production run.

This came up under the For Sale – Wanted forum at mye28.com, with a link to the seller’s eBay auction. It sounds like this isn’t the first time the car has been on eBay; previous attempts to sell it had the Buy-It-Now price even higher than today’s $31,900. Amazing that a 23 year-old car could be worth that much, even one with only 25,000 miles on it, prepped by Dinan, and kicking out 462 turbocharged intercooled horsepower. But I guess time will tell; like one of my college prof’s said, nothing is worth any more than someone is willing to pay for it.

I took the liberty of commandeering the photos from the eBay auction; feel free to flip through them after the jump. (more…)

A Cheapskate’s Paint Job, Part II

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

Well, I’m a few days and five coats of paint into my Cheapskate’s Paint Job, and things are looking… OK. Not wonderful, but not terrible either; just OK.

In my last post about the paint job, I had two coats on it. Those runs & drips turned out to be something of an issue, and had I known how much of an issue, I would’ve dealt with them when the paint was still wet. After they dried though, they needed to be sanded down flat, and that took a fairly large area on the driver’s door right back down to the original paint. There were a few other spots in the same boat, but that was by far the largest area with that problem.

What I’ve learned is that the method to this madness is to put down a little bit of paint, trying to keep it as smooth and thin as possible, then after a couple of coats like that, use the wet-sanding to smooth out any imperfections and get rid of any little dust pimples. Things are infinitely easier on the horizontal surfaces when the paint is applied with the roller; whenever the brush is thrown into the mix, or when the roller is used on a vertical surface, look out. And when using the foam brush on a vertical surface… It’s really easy to hose things up, but good. That’s what my problem was on the driver’s door.

So I’m pressing forward with the project, and it’s looking better all the time. There are a couple of places on the hood and on the roof that make me cringe a bit; the old respray had cracked in places, and was fairly thick. Plus whoever did the respray had put some Bondo on some dents in the hood, which had cracked & allowed the metal below to rust a little, so I had to grind that down. But in those places where the cracking had occurred, I should’ve spent a little more time making things smooth before painting, because they’re still visible. Dang. I guess that’s one nice thing about this method of painting; if something looks bad enough that it needs attention later, there shouldn’t be much difficulty in getting the colors to match!

One thing I’ll need to do after I get things back together is spend a little time detailing and painting the door jambs and the inside of the doors. Right now, since I need to be opening and closing the doors during the repainting, I’m stopping at the edges of the door skins. I figure I’ll be able to get to those areas afterward by doing a door at a time; pull off the door seals, sand, paint & allow to dry, then put it back together. And for that, I should be able to use spray paint and/or full-strength paint to get it done in one shot. I won’t be so stressed about any imperfections there.

I was able to get paint into the channel around the hood and trunk lid, but the trunk seal is in the way for part of it, and that will need to be dealt with. The seal is held in place with adhesive, and probably needs to be replaced anyway, but I’m not ready to spend the $80 on that right now. I learned on the Nordstroms parts car that getting that seal off can easily lead to breakage; don’t need that. Later on, when I do replace the seal, I figure I can get it off, get the channel thoroughly cleaned out, and paint under there with full-strength paint. The hood channel along the fenders has several exposed bolt heads, and I don’t want to get a bunch of paint gooped up around them, so I’m painting that as I go now. It’s looking fairly well covered with four coats.

I’ve been busy enough with the paint and the holiday and other stuff that I haven’t even thought about the trim yet; all the stuff that is going back on is gonna look really tacky if I don’t do something with it. The black plastic pieces on the bumper and the mirrors are pretty badly faded, and the aluminum bumpers are a little scuffed. I’ll need to spend a little time cleaning them up and trying to restore some depth to the black plastic. Not sure if I’ll paint the plastic or see if there’s some kind of restorative goop that will help; I’m thinking the paint will be the fastest/cheapest option, but I also don’t want it to crack & run on me, so the jury is still out on that.

Another issue I’m having is with my mixed paint; I started out by mixing the paint & mineral spirits in a plastic container that I found in the house, and for the first few days it worked fine for storing the paint. But the last couple of times I’ve opened the container the paint has had a skin on its surface. I haven’t been successful in keeping the bits of skin out of the paint, and have had to pick several pieces off the car that I didn’t get off the roller. I think the the plastic is being affected by the paint and allowing some air to pass through, drying the paint on the surface. I should’ve stored the paint in the original can or a better container, but I didn’t want to spend the extra couple of bucks for that; lesson learned. I think I’ll stop by the store tonight & pick up a container, then use some cheesecloth to strain the chunks out of the paint. And mix another batch, which will be needed because I just remembered that I forgot to pour the paint from the tray back into the bucket! Dang!

Sorry; no photos yet, but I’ll get some tonight and put them up next time.

To read the rest of the story and see the final product in pictures, click here. Enjoy!